Cinque Terre (May 25th - May 29th)

GETTING THERE

Genoa is probably the closest airport to fly to, to get to the Cinque Terre region. Florence is another alternative. Rome and Milan are options as well. I flew to Milan, but went to Venice first. So I made my way to Cinque Terre by train from Venice, which incidentally connects in Milan anyways. The time from Milan Centrale Station to Levanto was a little under 3 hours.
Regardless of where you fly to, you will eventually need to take a train, or drive to Cinque Terre. I guess you can go by sea as well, but I haven’t really explored that option and don’t know much about it. Trenitalia (http://www.trenitalia.com) has a great user friendly website one can use to check fares, schedules and make your reservations online.

You can either take the train to Levanto (recommended if coming from the north) or La Spezia (if coming from the south). Both Levanto and La Spezia and larger cities on each of Cinque Terre. You can choose to make these towns your base, or do like we did, just pick a village in Cinque Terre and stay there. There are trains running almost every 30 min between Levanto and La Spezia which stops at some or all the 5 villages. The five villages are all in a 5.28 km stretch, so the train rides are really short (2-3 min) between each village.

For tickets, you can but a single ticket and use it as many times within a 6 hour window as long as you go in the same direction as when you started. (to return, you will need a separate ticket). In anycase, tickets between villages are cheap (€1.40). Also, you have an option of including unlimited train with your Cinque Terre pass. The Cinque Terre pass, allows you on the trails between the 5 villages. It is €5.00 per day. Other options are also available for longer lengths. For more information, visit http://www.parconazionale5terre.it/news_parco_primo_piano.asp?id_lingue=2&pag=1


CINQUE TERRE ACCOMMODATIONS

I read a lot of information about Cinque Terre accommodations – from peoples blogs, to trip advisor, hotels.com, friends who had visited the area – and finally after sending out a couple dozen emails to various bed and breakfasts we decided on our accommodations.

Our first step was to narrow down which village we wanted to stay in. Most of the bigger travel sites (like hotels.com) listed hotels and B&B in Riomaggiore, arguably one of the biggest of the 5 villages. However, my first instinct was to stay in Corniglia since it is in the middle of the 5 villages. I found one B&B I liked, but after reading the review (which now, I can vouch is true) it was not a very convenient spot. After 5 or 6pm, there are no buses. You can take the train between villages. If you choose to eat dinner at Riomaggiore for instance, when you return to Corniglia, you will probably have to walk for at least 20 min to get to your room. It finally came down to a decision between Monterosso al mare and Vernazza.

Monterosso has the best beaches of Cinque Terre, and the most variety and number of restaurants among all the other villages and Vernazza looked just so pretty. Not being able to decide between the two, we decided to stay 2 nights at each place. In hindsight, it was a good decision – I enjoyed both places immensely. Perhaps if I had to choose only one, I’d pick Monterosso – It seemed to have more restaurants and bars. Also, the train station is in the heart of the new town and a short walk from old town, making it convenient to spend a late evening at another village and still being able to make it back to Monterosso late.

At Monterosso, we stayed at the Unico Affittacamere. At peak season, we paid €70/night It is owned by Adriano Rossignoli. I love the room. It was small, but very cozy, charming and clean. The location, in old town was perfect too. I would highly recommend it - this place is a gem. You can email Adriano at unicoscienza@libero.it . Basic information about the room is available at http://www.monterossonet.com/eng/strutture/hotel/da_unico/da_unico.htm

At Vernazza, we stayed at an apartment (without kitchen). The cost was €85/night. The location was fantastic. Just a few blocks from the train station, and steps away from the beach (You have a view of the beach from the bedroom window - See Photo). The only drawback with this apartment was that it can get very noisy till late at night or early in the morning since there are a couple of café/bars next to the apartment. Still, if you keep the windows shut, you can keep the most of the noise out. To make reservations, contact Alberto Basso at albertobasso@hotmail.com


A TOURIST IN CINQUE TERRE

DAY 1
After checking in to our room in the late afternoon, we spent our evening exploring Monterosso, walking in the old and new town. We spent a relaxed evening, eating dinner at the Enoteca Internazionale followed by a glass of wine at a bar just a few steps from our room.

DAY 2
We bought the Cinque Terre Pass for the day (€5/pp for the trail only - €8.50 for the trail + train for the day) … We planned to walk all the way from Monterosso to Riomaggiore stopping by each of the villages for a snack or wine or both. The trail from Monterosso to Vernazza (approx 1.5 hrs) and then from Vernazza to Corniglia (approx 1hr) was the hardest – but absolutely gorgeous as you pass through vineyards and orchards and have spectacular views of the Mediterranean at the same time. Corniglia to Manarola (approx 1 hr) was a straight stretch of road for the most part (other than the steep walk down the paved path towards the train station in Corniglia to get to the train – and the 300+ steps to the trail) – still it was a breeze compared to the hike between the previous two villages. Manarola to Riomaggiore was just a 20min walk – the trail called Via Dell’ Amore (lovers trail) was a pathway hugging the coastline offering expansive views of the Mediterranean. Absolutely gorgeous!

At Vernazza, we stopped at a café for juice and a sandwich. At Corniglia, we hunted for Miele Gelato (Honey gelato - a specialty of Corniglia) and were rewarded at a gelateria with the most delicious honey gelato. At Manarola, I wanted to drink the local wine made with grapes just from Manarola (as compared to the blends with grapes from all regions of Cinque Terre). I wasn’t too lucky. Instead, we settled for the most delicious foccacio’s at a bakery. At Riomaggiore, we stopped for a drink – my first glass of wine that day at La Corniglia. We took the train back to Monterosso and after relaxing and freshening up went to dinner at Al Carugio – a restaurant a block away from our room.

Having spent the entire day getting a flavor of all the villages – we planned to spend the next day in Vernazza (since we were to stay there for the next 2 nights), and then our last day in Corniglia and Manarola.

DAY 3
We checked in at our apartment at Vernazza. Alberto – the owner of the apartment suggested a La Sondra for lunch – an excellent recommendation. After lunch, we explored the village (did not take much time doing that) and then spent an hour at the beach. Dinner was at Belforte – a great restaurant, with an excellent location – overlooking the sea. I would recommend making reservations to make sure you get the table with the best views.

After dinner, we spent the evening with Alberto, his girlfriend Catherine and a couple of his friends. It was an unplanned event – we wanted to see a soccer game on TV and Alberto graciously offered us his living room to watch the game. He was entertaining some friends that evening and invited us to join them. I ate one of the best Tiramisu’s ever – and even got the recipe for it from Alberto.

DAY 4
We took the ferry to Riomaggiore. We wanted to go to Manarola, but due to rough seas, the ferry wouldn’t stop there. At Riomaggiore we explored the area a little, then took the train to Corniglia for lunch. No – I had no intention of walking that day. Lunch was a take away sandwich and some juice to keep us hydrated, and our treat later was the real reason we were there in the first place - their honey gelato. Hmm yummy!!!

We took the trail from Corniglia to Manarola – the only trail that you do not need the Cinque Terre pass. At Manarola, we sat at a bar, enjoying Cinque Terre wine and waited till 6:30pm, so we could eat dinner at Marina Piccola. After dinner, we took the train back to Vernazza and spent our last night with a bottle of wine sitting on the rocks, overlooking the sea, listening to waves crash at the shore. A wonderful end to a wonderful stay in Cinque Terre. The next day we were to head out early on a train back to Milan.

Venice (May 22nd - May 25th)

VENICE TRANSPORTATION: GETTING THERE & AROUND - SOME TRAVEL TIPS..

I traveled by train from Milan to Venice. It took approx. 2.5 hrs. €53 roundtrip 2nd class. Make sure you get tickets to Venice Saint Lucia and not Mestre (unless that's where you are staying) as Mestre is on the Mainland. When you leave the train station you will face the Grand Canal - It took me a few seconds to completely grasp that this is it - the real thing - not the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas or Disneyworld.

To get to the city center, you can take a water taxi (which can be quite expensive) or a Vaparetto. Two lines (line 1 & 2) run between the train Santa Lucia to St. Marks Square. (One way: €6.50 valid for an hour for a single direction only.. Cheaper tickets available for shorter distances). Vaparetto #1 is a slow service and will take approx 45min to get to St. Marks Square. Vaporetto #2, will takes approx 25min. Plan your return trip accordingly - We almost missed our train as we anticipated 30 min for the journey but realized we took Vaparetto 1, instead of 2.

You do not need the day passes for the Vaparetto unless you absolutely hate walking or plan to visit the nearby islands. You can walk from one end of the island to the other in less than an hour. Most of the touristy sights are within a 20 min walk from Rialto. It is a 5min walk from Rialto to St. Marks Square.

If you are curious and are interested in buying the passes, this site http://www.veniceconnected.com/ gives you all the details as well as an option to buy your tickets online (you get a discount if you buy the passes at least a week in advance)


RECOMMENDED ACCOMMODATION IN VENICE

At first glance, accommodations are expensive in Venice. Even a decent hostel runs to €50 pp/ per night. Hotels.com gave a bunch of options with an average price of €250/night for a Rialto or St Marks square location (which are the ideal locations). After spending almost all day searching for a nice, inexpensive (less than €150) place to stay in Venice, I finally found a gem. Locanda Antico Casin (http://www.anticocasin.com/en/index.htm). Room rates vary according to season. In May, the regular rate was €150/night. Look on their website for specials before booking. I was able to get my room for €120/nt since I was staying 3nights. Closer to my departure though, they has a last minute special of 95E/nt. Note though, this hotel only has 5 rooms, so I would not advise to wait until the last minute to book. Grab your room while you can if it is available. You will not regret it. This place is only a block away from St Marks. It is very clean, modern & comfortable. And even though it is so close to the most touristy place, it is in an alleyway which is very quiet so you will not be disturbed if you want to sleep early or wake up late. (Photo)

A TOURIST IN VENICE
My travel plans involved 3nts (2.5 days in Venice). That was perfect. I was able to see all the sights I really wanted to see and spend plenty to leisure time at café's, bars, and restaurants.

DAY 1, arrived Venice at 4:00pm.
We walked over to St Marks square, just because it was so close to us. Admired the Basilica and the Palace from the outside and then walked to Harry's Bar. (http://www.harrysbarvenezia.com/) A historic (and pricey) bar which invented the famous Bellini (Peach and Prosecco cocktail). I was expecting well dressed people and a flashy interior, but instead it was a small (but nice) room packed with very casually dressed tourists and tired and uninterested wait staff. A Bellini and a coffee and €30 poorer, we headed for a Cicchetteria (pub which serve small appetizers) crawl.

First stop was Ostaria Dei Zemei, It looked nice & casual and had food (I was hungry). Someone had just ordered a pretty looking drink so I asked the bartender to make me the same. The drink, apparently quite popular in Venice, is a Spritz. Mine was a Spritz con Campari. It was too bitter for my taste buds, but I am told there are many variations of the Spritz, and it does not have to be with Campari. In any case, I settled for wine for rest of my trip.

Next stop was Pane Vino e San Daniele (on Calle dei Botteri, Sao Polo 1544), apparently a chain. We were tempted by the sight of a fresh bubbling tomato sauce on the counter with breadsticks. So we ordered a glass of wine and nibbled on the breadsticks. After a glass (or was it two) of wine, we walked over to Al Marca (on Campo Cesare Battisti, near the fish market). This was a small bar without any seating overlooking a square. Apparently a very popular spot with the 18-35 age group locals. It was very crowded. We took our drinks and walked to the canal side and sat by the dock watching the boats sail by. Stuffed with appetizer’s but still hungry for more treats, we made our way to Al Nono Risorto, our last stop for the evening, an inexpensive pizzeria/trattoria boasting to have the best pizza's in Venice. After eating there, I would not be surprised if this claim was true. It was definitely one of the better pizza's I have had. If you want outdoor seating on weekend's do make reservations. This place is very popular.

DAY 2:
Started with breakfast in bed at the hotel. Did I mention how awesome the Locanda Antico Casin is? Well, it is.

We began our exploration of Venice around 10:30am. First we went to the Correr Museum on St Marks Square. (If you are planning to go to the Doge's Palace, your best bet is to buy your tickets at the Correr Museum to beat the line at the Palace) The ticket covers both the Correr museum and the Doge's Palace entry. After visiting the Correr Museum we went to St Mark's Basilica (Photo). Again, to beat the long serpentine queue to enter the Basilica, we went to the Bag check counter (on a small street to the left of the Basilica), checked in our bag (for free) and got a token which let us enter the basilica immediately. Only caveat is you have one hour to visit the basilica and pick up your bag - which really isn't a big deal. Entry to the basilica is free, but there are entrance fees to see the crypt of to go the 2nd floor where there is a small museum besides, the view from the balcony of St. Mark's square, as well as the interior of the basilica, makes this worthwhile.

For lunch we walked over to Sandwich row on Calle delle Rasse near St Marks Square for quick yummy inexpensive sandwiches to fuel us for the next couple of hours sightseeing. After lunch we went to Doge's Palace. The tickets we got at the Correr museum again helped us beat the line and walk right in. After spending a couple of hours at the Palace, we walked towards Friar Church. On the way, we stopped at a café on a square and sipped a Bellini and wine. The church was beautiful. Got to see the tomb of Titian and Canova, two great artists.

A full day of sightseeing done, we treated ourselves to some wine and appetizers at Cantino do Mori (on Sao Polo 429) and another Cicchetteria at Campo Cesare Battisti (near Al Marca). Cantino do Mori, was my favorite because of its rustic ambiance.

That evening, I went Tango dancing. I was a little disappointed with the Tango scene in venice. I guess I expected more. The Milonga was far from the city center (a 40 min walk) in a fairly deserted neighborhood. Not too many dancers. I did not stay there too long. Enough to dance a few tanda's and then returned back to the hotel.

DAY 3
We were woken up by a loud band playing. Today was the Fiesta della Senza. We assumed the band was playing near the canal. We had our breakfast and decided to walk to the Grand Canal near St Marks square to watch the festivities. As we got out of the hotel, we found the band playing right outside our hotel door. No wonder it felt so loud. We took some pictures at the Canal of the boats that were going to race that day. Then we went to the Campanile (the bell tower) (Photo) on St. Marks Square. We got wonderful views of the island as well as of all the boats at the canal for the festivities.

Next stop was to the Rialto bridge for the Sunday market – we wanted to buy some souvenirs. After buying some Murano glass handicrafts and a Venetian mask, we were hungry for lunch. We went to Osteria al Bomba , a restaurant listed in our guide book and while there, we met a group of 6 men who were apparently making their rounds at different bars. One of them was of Indian origin (Photo). He was from Pune, and had been living in Venice for 40 years. He recommended another restaurant close by (Osteria al Bottega) for lunch. It was really good. My ravioli was delicious!

Next stop was Scuola San Rocco, "Tintoretto's Sistine Chapel". Beautiful paintings! As if that wasn’t enough, our next stop was the Accademia Museum. After the museum, we had a quick snack at Pizzeria Accademia Foscarini (next to the Accademia bridge and Galleria). It was good – but not as good as Al Nono. Probably a good thing as we needed our appetite for our dinner. We had reservations at Bistrot de Venice (http://www.bistrotdevenise.com/eng/index.html). Paul had read about it in a book The Conquest of Taste, which talks about the history of spice trade. The Bistrot is one restaurant, which serves meals from the historic era using the traditional recipes and spices. The meal was very good and so was the ambience. A really nice way to spend our last night in Venice.