Last tango in Argentina

How much can I cram in my last 24 hrs in Buenos Aires to savor every bit of my experience there? Well - the best bet was to focus on the two things I love the most - Tango and Shopping. I started with Tango on Friday afternoon. Actually managing to wake up early enough to make the noon class at Confiteria Ideal. The class was hosted by Diego and Zoraida. It was more a practica (a practice session) rather than a formal class. You dance, if you need help, you ask the teachers. At one point, when I was taking a break and sitting, Diego came up to me and told me that he saw me dancing at the Milonga in Ideal a few days back and that I danced well, so what did I feel I need help working on. It caught me off guard, as I have had previous teachers in group classes show me figures and steps. Still, I took this opportunity to gather up things that I am need work on - Like my posture (I tense my shoulders at time), or boleos in the air (I can't relax my leg enough). He danced with me for a few minutes and then asked me why I suddenly stress in the midst of a dance… and I started saying .."well, I am trying to think …" and he cut me off before I could complete my sentence and said "That’s it - You are thinking. You should not think." And then he went on to show me that the only way I can move at any time in Tango is to walk back, or step forward, or to the side, or pivot and to the side - that is all. So with just 4 possible options for me, there is no need to think. Interesting way to put it. I have heard the "Do not anticipate" line before, and this was along those lines. I now need to work on just feeling the lead, not mentally interpret the lead. I practiced some more and then I got hungry.

I found a Pizzeria mentioned in my guide book. A very humble non-touristy restaurant with a lot of local flavor and character. It's called El Cuartito. I had two of my Argentine favorite - Queso y Cebolla Empanada & a a slice of Fugazetta (A white pizza with sour cream and Onions). I also tried Farina, a chickpea pancake which reminds me of something my mom makes. Suitably stuffed - I was now on to my next stop - Comme il faut. I wanted a neutral color dance shoes that would go with most dresses. I had seen one pair I had liked before and wanted to stop by and pick it up. Ingrid met me there as she had to pick up her shoes that she had bought and given for having suede soles put on the shoes. I went to just pick one pair, but while there, I saw another girl try on this bright black, yellow pick suede sandals with gold heels (yes, I know it sounds gaudy, but its not) I fell in love with those shoes and even though the heel was not as high as I wanted, I bought that too. I justified the purchase by thinking that these will be fabulous with a dressy pair of jeans and can pep up any outfit. So now, in all I have five pairs of dancing shoes from Buenos Aires, not counting the two that I already have at home. With eight pairs of dancing shoes, I now just need more Milongas to go to. I was not the only victim - Ingrid who was there to pick up her two shoes ended up buying two more. Bumped into Zeynep there too, who confided that so far in 10 days she has bought 12 pairs of shoes. It makes me feel less guilty now of my own indulgence.

That evening, Ingrid, Zeynep and I went to the theater for a Tango show at the Cambalache festival. After the show there was a Milonga. We stayed for about an hour at the Milonga but it was not that great. A lot of people, but very few were dancing. Considering it was to be my last milonga for this trip, I wanted to dance. We went to Salon Canning for the Parkutural Milonga instead. I got my hearts desire of dancing. Non stop for two hours until I my feet hurt so much. Towards the end, I avoided eye contact with people as I wanted to sit for a while, but that was not to be. Men came up to me asked me if I wanted to dance, and of course I still haven't mastered the art of saying no I am tired - so I danced some more. Finally when I could feel my feet dragging on the floor I knew its time for me to go home. I reached home at 4am.

Saturday, my last day in the city, I spent by going to Recoleta to the Artesan Market. I had some pesos left over and wanted to use them up. And I sure did that - all the way down to my last peso. Not a wise decision, as by afternoon when I got back to the casa, I was hungry and I walked around the neighborhood and realized that none of them accept credit cards. I guess I could have gone to an ATM, but did not want to for just 10 pesos ($3). Instead I went back home, had some fruits and cookies and coffee.

Maria met me a couple of hours before I was to leave and later Ingrid and Zeynep joined me for my final farewell… We sat, talked and joked about our funny tango moments and before I knew it, my shuttle was there to pick me up. (Picture: With Maria)

At the airport, I walked around aimlessly. Like Vegas and Amsterdam have slot machines at the airport for you spend your last few minutes gambling, I was longing that the Buenos Aires airport has a Milonga for a last tango before I get on the flight. Of course that was not meant to be… (But it would be a good idea, right?). While standing in line waiting to board, there was a young American teenager talking in a stereotypical “ugly American” high pitched whiney voice about how she could not stand the Subte (subways) in the city and how Buenos Aires was just so crowded and dirty and had dog poop everywhere etc etc… I felt sorry for her that she was unable to see past those layers into the depths of what this city has to offer. You really do not need to be a tango lover to fall in love with this city. It’s the people, the food, the music, the language the history all intertwined which makes this place so special. I turned on my ipod to my Tango music and drowned out the whiney voice and savored my last few minutes in Buenos Aires.